22 March

Christ Church Cathedral

The plaque by the door declares that the church was the gift of one Violet Drysdale. Consecrated 1932. We sing "Just as I am without one plea" in Swahili.

3:15 p.m. Driving around Arusha, a spin around the Uhuru Monument, head sticking out of the roof.


The Swahili word safari means 'to travel'. The safari, more than any other activity, epitomises the white man's experience of Africa. No trip to Africa is complete without a jaunt in a landrover across the Serengeti Plains. In days gone by, the white man might have brought his rifle with him, bringing home a leopard-skin coat for the missus. In these more enlightened times, we shoot not with a Winchester 22 guage but with a Canon EOS 500N 28-80mm (we've gone metric). I must say that even this activity is not without its detractors.

Lake Manyara



Olduvai Gorge

We are met by the site director, Kileo.


Tsetse flies. At the back of the minibus, there was carnage: Blood, in sticky rivulets, streamed down the glass, obscuring the view.

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